Seoul Day I: DMZ

I recently spent a weekend in Seoul. It was the first time I had been back since first landing in Korea and the first week of work training. I looked forward to a change in scenery and reuniting with old friends.

After ending work Friday night, I boarded a late night train with Anne, Renee, and Wolf which departed Busan at 11:15 PM and would arrive in Seoul 4:30 AM. The train ride was not the comfiest. Though the price was affordable, it was the best place to get a good night sleep. I was glad that I brought a sleep mask because they didn't turn off the lights the entire ride.

When we arrived in Seoul our first destination was supposed to be a 24 hour jjimjilbang to rest and recuperate. Unfortunately, after trail and error, we were not able to find it. I should learn my lesson by now that finding an address in Korea are never as easy as I think they will be.

So we spent the first part of the morning in a Lotteria instead, which is equivalent to a McDonalds. When 8 o'clock rolled around we departed for our first destination: Camp Kim USO.  From there we would take an 8 hour tour through Korea's Demilitarized Zone, ending at the Joint Security Area which is the only portion of the DMZ where North Korean and South Korean soldiers stand face to face.

Entrance going into the DMZ.  From here we were told where we were allowed to take pictures or not.

The first stop was a museum and the Third Infiltration Tunnel. It was the third tunnel to be found designed for surprise attack on Seoul from North Korea.  At first North Korea denied building the tunnel, but later declared it part of a coal mine and painted black "coal" on the walls. From the visitor's museum we were able to walk down through the tunnel which led to the boarder line. I caught my first glimpse of North Korea from underground.

The next stop was Dora Observatory, which looks across the DMZ into North Korea. 

Arriving at Dora Observatory.
The gold bus was for our tour group.  There were many tours going on at the same time.

Dora Observatory

LOL

On the lookout point there is a yellow line.  There are absolutely no pictures to be taken across that line. Once you cross the line, North Korea is in full view.and even binoculars are available. Looking into the other side was eerie. It was a vast space and in the closing of winter the scenery, the foliage, and the buildings were beige, dull, and stagnant. It didn't seem real at all.

The observation deck

No photos beyond this line

The next step was Dorasan Station, which is a railway station that once connected North and South Korea.  It has now been restored in part by donations of people who hope to see the two Koreas united once again.

Finally, we made it to Camp Bonifas and Conference Row. At the camp we were given a short briefing on the history of Korea and the DMZ.  We then made our way to Conference Row, which are (or were) used for direct talks between the two Koreas. 

The video below is in front of the conference rooms.  You can see the South Korean soldiers facing the North Korean building, as well as one North Korean soldier on the other side. Video credit goes to Anne.

We were also able to go inside the conference rooms. There were large wooden chairs and large wooden tables.  On the tables were microphones and the United Nations flag. From inside the room you could walk into "North Korea".  The cement line in the following pictures is the border between North and South Korea.

Standing in South Korea

Standing in North Korea

The bus continued to tour around the area stopping at a few different points of interest, including an outlook where we could see Propaganda Village. Here is another video and a picture at the Bridge of No Return, where POW were exchanged after the Korean War.

Bridge of No Return

It's a strange time in history to be in South Korea.  Many of my family and friends have reached out to me in concern, but on this side day to day living has remained unchanged and unflinching by the threat of war. Life goes on as if the possibility of death is somewhere far and distant.  But that's like every other day, isn't it?